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be free of all fishing traffic. On the Opener, fair weather or foul, anglers came out in force to fish, pee in the bushes, and celebrate a victory over another long Winter. I turned north on Sand Road and dropped into the river valley. Just short of a bridge slightly narrower than a car and a barreling milk truck could make simultaneously, on the left and back in the trees, I spotted the Creel, just like the map promised I would. I turned in the drive and parked between a formidable red camper truck and a green Volvo station wagon.
The Creel is less a cabin than it is a shack: one room with a bunk bed fashioned out of rough lumber, two cast-off couches, a table, a shelf filled with mostly-empty Schnapps bottles, a decks of 49 cards, grimy beer glasses, various trophies (the tassel from an exotic dancer, a pilfered cue ball, a few rusted spinner-baits, etc), another shelf supporting an ominously antique Coleman stove, no heat, no plumbing, and a perpetual odor of must, all of this separated from the outside world, somewhat informally, by log walls and a moss encrusted roof. Outside The Creel were hung articles of clothing, creels, rods, and a long string of freshly dressed brown trout. Two men sat on the lawn in ladder-back chairs. Next to them, her legs demurely crossed, sat an inflatable woman. A third man was fiddling with something at a folding camp table. They all eyed me, curious.
Neither Jerry nor Ladd wore a shirt; and both were drinking beers while supervising Mike who was busily burning a bundt cake in a camp oven. From out of the woods emerged Dick. For a shocking second I thought he was naked except for a cowboy hat and rubber boots, but it was just that his white jockey shorts blended in perfectly with his pale skin. He was carrying a roll of toilet paper. For a moment I had serious misgivings about joining this or any society, and I wondered if they werent feeling a little put off that a stranger had broken into their company, a company who had a long history of spending the Opener together.
I had nothing to worry about. Within minutes I had been greeted, shown around, and elected Social Chairman for the remainder of the trip (this meant I had to come up with ideas for activities, suggestions which were immediately mocked and discounted, and I had buy the first round of drinks when we went to town). Within hours I was wading up the Clam River with Dick. That night, and for the next 18 years, I was awarded a bunk and a ticket to hear a symphony of ripsnarl snoring. I was in the woods, out of the Winter. I was home.
There have been a few changes in the routine over the last 18 years. Were more politically correct now : no rubber maidens sitting in a lawn chair; no stolen cue balls; a damn site fewer beer cans tossed in the bushes; no boozy drives down the middle of country roads or stops at strip joints. Now- a-days we go straight to the Creel to cook steaks and drink beer. No one keeps fish anymore. But for the most part, Opening Day has remained a durable formula. Mike still cooks breakfast, and we still head to Spooner for a dinner of steaks and beer. If the weather is fine, Dick still walks around in his undershorts and shoes. Jerry still insists we talk about the days when we could cast with deadly accuracy because we were still loose from a night of getting deadly drunk. Ladd sleeps late on Sunday morning. We still show off new fishing gadgets. The fish reported as caught continue to be four to seven inches longer than they really were. A lot of the time we just sit around and laugh.
Solitude is still my souls best friend... for most of the season. But after a bitter, isolated winter, I have come to think that there are few things better than pulling on waders and stepping into a Spring-swollen, gelid river, and having a friend nearby to laugh as I stumble on rocks and nearly go under. And few things beat stepping out of the river, walking along a country road , looking through the thin green curtain of foliage deep into the woods, and arriving back at camp to share burned bundt cake and beer with a group of guys whose only agenda is to promote each others happiness, and share in the relief at being outside for another season of trout fishing.
Peter Graff, a teacher by vocation and a fly fisherman, columnist, and web designer by avocation, writes "The Last Cast" which appears regularly in Midwest Fly Fishing.
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Most of the time trout fishing is a solitary activity for me, a way to hold the balance. Even when I go fishing with a friend, I like to keep socializing to the car and the bar. The rest of the time I prefer to split up and meet back when it is too dark to see the fly on the water anymore. There is, however, one exception: the Opener when, on the first Friday in May, Dick, Jerry, Ladd, Mike and I pile in a car and barnstorm Wisconsin. For 36 hours, trout fishing and privacy give way to trout fishing, companionship and general tomfoolery.
My first Opener with the boys happened 18 years ago, unintentionally. I had been flirting with trout fishing for a couple of years, and I decided to inaugurate the season on a secluded little stream called McKenzie Creek. I had never seen another fisherman on the McKenzie because getting to it is a terrifying experience attempted only by the undaunted or unstable. The road into McKenzie consists of two ruts roughly pressed into the woods and liberally salted with boulders the size of Neptune. When the weather is dry, it is an even money bet that the undercarriage of ones car will be peeled away , or that the entire vehicle will disappear into a black hole; if the weather is foul, chances are that one will become mired in bumper-deep mud, a long walk away from help. But if the gods smile, a guy can make it, and hell find himself high up on a wooded hill overlooking the McKenzie which gentles into sight from out of thick ferns winds around the base of the hill and then disappears into the forest . He, like the brown trout, will be unpestered by any other fishermen.
The gods grinned for me on that day. My little blue Honda hatchback, which died a few years later of leprosy and carburetor emphysema, negotiated the road like a mountain goat. I unloaded gear, strung a rod, hung my vest on a broken branch stub, pitched a tent on the hilltop, and cooked supper. Then I built a small fire and settled back with a bottle of cognac to watch the pines fade into darkness and the sparks from the campfire rise up to become stars. Except for a vagrant breeze there was no movement, and the night was as quiet as contented mans pulse-beat.
Wham! Some time before sunrise I was jolted awake by the sound of a car door slamming shut. Wham! Wham! Two more doors. Wham! Wham! Wham! I unzipped the tent fly and peered out into the murky light. Parked around my tent were five campers, a jeep, and three pick-up trucks. Three more vehicles were pulling over the hilltop, one of which looked like a looked like a Greyhound tour bus from Minot. I barely made out dark shapes, clad in hip waders and armed with rods swarming down the hill to the stream. It was immediately evident that I was in the midst of an Oklahoma land rush, that solitude was blown to the wind, and that I had a decision to make: stand shoulder to shoulder with an army of worm-soakers or throw everything back into the Honda and get the hell out of there. Forty-five minutes later I turned off of the Road to Bataan and onto County Road H. The sun was climbing over the trees; it promised to be a gorgeous Spring day; and I couldnt have felt any lower--less cheated. Where to now?
Then I remembered the piece of paper wadded up in the glove compartment. On it were directions to a place called The Creel that had been given to me by Jerry, a fellow I taught school with, and a nice guy, for an algebra teacher--who introduced me to Wisconsin trout fishing the year before. Seems he and a group of friends have been opening the season on the Clam River since Century One.
Well be at the Creel all day Saturday until dinner time and Sunday until midafternoon, except when were fishing...or at the bar, said Jerry as he roughed out a map to the place. Stop by if you get time. Though I had hoped for a reclusive Opener, I found myself with plenty of time.
The Creel is twenty miles or so from McKenzie Creek. The country roads, Cty. O and then B, and then H, crossed the Clam several times and at each bridge, four or five vehicles were parked. Over the years I would discover that the river, especially where it crossed under a bridge, was overrun with fishermen on Opening Day; the rest of the season the river would
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